Steel cut oats–sometimes called Irish oats–are the chopped up whole oat grain (also called a groat–I’m not kidding). The grain is not rolled, so it takes quite a bit longer to cook than rolled oats, but, as a result, has tons more flavor and a texture that is, at the same time, nubbly and creamy. This isn’t the instant mush I grew up on in suburban California–this is real, wholesome food that takes time and attention–and possibly even chewing.
Long ago, in an Oregon town famous for it’s Shakespeare Festival, I visited a restaurant that served the best steel cut oats I’ve ever had. I think they called them Tunisian–cooked with turmeric, cardamom and dried apricots. My own version isn’t quite so exotic, but is very adaptable to various tastes and appetites.
I have paired this recipe with a another for Fig Syrup. If you’re lucky enough to live in a place where fresh figs are available, do not be tempted to use the fresh fruit in place of the dry. Quite frankly, to demoralize a fresh fig in that way would be sacrilege. In my opinion, there is no food more perfect than a fresh, ripe fig–eaten in sumptuous bites, eyes, closed, heart humming. In fact, if there is a heaven, then I’m convinced that it is a place where I could exist solely on fresh figs; heavy, buttery Haas avocados; and raw oysters, straight from the sea. One wonders why I cook at all–relishing foods that have been no where near a kitchen. But I digress. It is winter, after all, when warmer climes and fresh foods exist primarily in our imaginations.
Anyhoo, where was I? Oh, yes, winter; when fresh fruit in this part of the world, is a scarcity. You don’t have to use figs–apples, pears, mango, even raisins (if you can stand what they look like after being rehydrated. Personally, I can’t do it. They remind me of huge bloated ticks). So with that lovely image in your mind, let’s get to it.
Kate’s Steel Cut Oats
Serves 2
Ingredients for oats:
- 1/2 c steel cut oats
- 1-1/2 c water or brewed, fragrant tea
- 1/2 c milk, soy milk or coconut milk (or stick with all water, increasing amount to 2 cups)
- 1 T butter, coconut oil or other vegetable oil
- sea salt
Method:
In a wide frying pan, heat the butter until it foams and then add oats. Toast the grains until lightly browned and nutty-smelling. Remove from heat.
While toasting the oats, heat the liquids until boiling. Reduce heat and add the toasted oats. If the oats have just come off the flame, keep in mind that the liquid will sputter and spit as you add them. It’s no big deal, just stand back so you don’t burn yourself.
Cook oats at a vigorous simmer for about 30-40 minutes. When the mixture thickens to a gravy-like consistency, add a pinch or two of salt. Stir frequently until the oats are done cooking. They will be creamy and slightly toothy.
Dried Fig Syrup
Use a strong honey, if you want, for this fragrant, sweet syrup. Even something as strong as chestnut honey, or pine honey would work. The idea is to taste the honey as much as the figs. This recipe makes quite a bit of syrup–so pour it into a jar and use it the next time you have oatmeal (or poundcake…or french toast…or ice cream…)
Ingredients for Dried Fig Syrup:
- 1/2 c whole, dried figs (I use Black Mission–but have used all kinds)
- water
- about 1/4 c honey
- 1/2 vanilla bean
- cinnamon
- cardamom
Method:
Slice figs in to plump discs, place in a saucepan and add enough water to cover. Split and scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean, and add it, pod and all, along with a pinch of cinnamon and cardamom, to the pan. Simmer over a medium flame, pressing, crushing and mashing the figs as they soften. Add more water if mixture becomes too thick and begins to burn.
Cook until the figs are very soft–almost completely dissolved into the water. The mixture should look muddled and chunky. Add the honey, stir, and continue to cook. Add more water until the syrup is the desired consistency.
Taste it. When it’s done, it should taste strong–the kind of thing you just can’t eat on it’s own. Stir a spoonful into your bowl of oatmeal, and then add more to taste.
